Easter Lilies are Perennials

Easter is almost upon us and many of you will be receiving or purchasing these beauties as a potted plant almost in bloom. You might think they are a permanent indoor plant and after blooming discard it. Well, they are not a plant for permanent indoor use and don't throw it away after blooming!

Easter lilies are a Trumpet lily (lillium longiflorum) normally blooming in June or July. Like other gift plants, they are grown under extremely controlled greenhouse conditions (a process called "forcing") and sold in full bloom by florists or garden centers to bloom for the Easter weekend. This process is quite extensive, starting the previous Fall (usually September or October) with bulbs that are grown for three to four years outdoors. They are removed from the outdoor location, sold as bulbs, cooled, then potted and transferred into a green house and grown there with extreme care for three to four months for blooming in time for the Easter holiday. Easter lilies are a perennial bulb and if cared for properly during their bloom period indoors, will produce flowers for years to come.

Once an Easter lily bulb has been forced to bloom indoors, it is very difficult or almost impossible to force the same Easter lily bulb into bloom a second time indoors. An alternative is to plant them outdoors after blooming, where they may bloom again in late summer or fall. The plants will need a site with bright light but some shelter from extreme heat and wind. They are not hardy enough to survive severe winters outside (extreme cold and wet conditions), so don't expect to see them next summer if you leave them out all winter under these conditions. Instead, plant them in a pot and move them inside to a cool, somewhat dark location for the winter. Keep the planted bulb from freezing over an extended period of time.
Read more about Easter Lilies and lily care...

Vinegar as a Weed Killer?

The focus of this blog is not to debate organic versus man-made weed killers but to possibly enlighten you on just exactly what vinegar can and cannot do. I have used vinegar as a non-selective weed control method (and still use it today) but it does have its' limitations.

After over 30 years in the pesticide business, I have seen a lot of changes happen and used theories that do and do not work, and made use of a lot of home brew, organic pesticides and weed killers. I still use some to this day and have discarded others. I have absolutely nothing against organic methods of gardening or farming and I have been using those methods for the last twenty years, long before it became fashionable.

The lack of weed control options has and will continue to be very frustrating for organic farmers, gardeners and homeowners who do not want to use synthetic pesticides. The idea of using household vinegar as a herbicide is very appealing, it's natural, inexpensive and readily available.

How Vinegar Works as a Weed Killer

The acetic acid in vinegar is the active ingredient. When applied to plant foliage, the acetic acid destroys cell membranes causing plant tissues to dry out. Acetic acid does not translocate (move through the plant and into the root system) so only the foliage of treated weeds are killed, not the roots. Re-treatment will be necessary.

Vinegar-based herbicides are contact and non-selective, which means any plant foliage that is sprayed will be damaged. So, be very careful that you only apply to your target weed or grass, any surrounding plants will be damaged. Consider adding vegetable oil in your mix. It serves as a drift control agent.

Tips for best results: Apply vinegar on hot, sunny days. It works best on young (less than 3 weeks old) and rapidly growing weeds.

Why Homemade Weed Killers Are Sometimes Not a Great Idea

Yes, vinegar is an environmentally friendly, natural weed control option, but mixing up a home brew of vinegar weed killer may not the best idea.

• The higher the concentration of acetic acid, the better it will work. Kitchen grade vinegar is only 5% acetic acid and is not a very good weed killer. Horticultural vinegar is much stronger -- 15 to 20% acetic acid -- and a much more effective herbicide.

• "Yeah, but I have a recipe that includes salt, dish soap and citric acid". Oh, my. Never use salt unless you want nothing else to grow! The only additive that will increase weed control is dish soap. Dish soap will help the mixture penetrate the target weed, especially through a waxy coated leaf, such as dandelion. Other additives are just a waste of time and money and do not increase weed control. The percentage of acetic acid and volume applied to weeds determined effectiveness.

• WARNING: Handle with care! The acetic acid in vinegar is an acid and acid is corrosive. Any acetic solution above 5% must be handled with care, it can burn skin and cause eye damage.

• Weed Pharm is a vinegar weed killer that is labeled for organic use.

Although not organic, glyphosate (Roundup) is a more suitable and safer choice for non-selective weed control. Contrary to popular belief, it is safe to handle and is bio-degradable, when used according to the label directions and will kill grasses and weeds to their roots. Re-treatment is normally not necessary.

• Horticultural vinegar products carry the Danger signal word on the label, while Caution is found on glyphosate. 20% acetic acid is not something I want to handle, glyphosate is much safer for the applicator.

• A single application of horticultural vinegar will kill many annual weeds but perennial weeds need to be retreated frequently. A single application of glyphosate will eliminate most weeds, killing them down to the roots.

• When used according to the label, glyphosate will not harm the soil or pollute water supplies. It cannot leach into and contaminate ground waters because it forms a strong chemical bond with soil particles where it quickly breaks down into harmless elements.

Organic gardening is a very noble pursuit and I'm very much in favor of reducing or even eliminating chemical usage. Vinegar weed killer home brews made from food grade products are not very effective. Glyphosate is safer to handle than horticultural vinegar and a much more efficient herbicide. If used according to the label, glyphosate is safe to use around homes and will not harm the environment.

Dry Bulbs from "Box Stores"

Well, I was in a national "box store" a few days ago getting supplies for our venue site and checked out the lily bulbs. Nice display and the bulbs were certainly affordable. I wish I would have had my camera.

Here's the problem...most of them were dried out, half grown (even the few orientals they had) with stems and leaves, and small (the size of a golf ball and smaller)! When you buy lily bulbs or any other bulbs, there can be some growth but not that much! Here is what happens: The bulbs are shipped in plastic bags with sawdust or wood chips (that's perfectly ok), displayed under florescent lights, and the store is usually kept at or above 65 degrees to keep everyone warm, especially customers . This creates a greenhouse effect and they begin to grow, not stopping until they bloom! You might say "is that so bad, at least you know they are alive." Yes it is. 1.) When you purchase a bulb from the environment I just described, the bulbs are usually dry and will die soon after planting. There is not enough sugar in the plant to sustain itself. 2.) The stem will not grow and perform normally. After growing inside, they need to be "hardened off" before planting outside. After receiving some rain or irrigation, the stem will become weak, droop to the ground, and die. You might say to yourself, "Ok, I'll give them some water and place them in the fridge for awhile". That sometimes works but not normally. When the bulbs receive water in a dried out state (especially with saw dust in the bag), the scales take up too much water at once and they will rot. The rotting may not show immediately, but it will happen.

Typically Asiatic lilies, tulips, and daffodils are the earliest to grow and bloom indoor or outdoor. Asiatic and most Tiger lilies are the most hardiest and easier to grow than all other lilies, should be "hardened off" before planting, planted in the fall or winter (September to February), and be the same size or larger than a golf ball (12 to 14 centimeters or larger).

Day lilies (not a true lily) are extremely hardy and can be planted any time during the year before or after bloom as long as the ground is not frozen.

Orientals, Orienpets, Trumpets, and some Tiger lilies are normally the latest to bloom and can be planted Fall in to Spring (September to May). They also should be "hardened off" before planting outdoors with plenty of water and sugar within the bulb. With the exception of Tiger and Oriental Lilies, this group is somewhat temperamental. Therefore, purchasing these bulbs that are healthy and one & a half times larger than a golf ball (14 to 16 centimeters or larger) is best and will provide the plant with plenty of water and sugar in the scales to produce and stay healthy for many years to come.

Oriental, Trumpet, and Orienpets:

Ever wonder what happens to the "mother" bulb each year after the first real strong blooming season? Well, here it is...as a commercial grower, we will not sell a bulb in this class smaller than 14 centimeters (about one and a half to two times the size of a golf ball) and in healthy condition. Here's why: the outer scales serve as support to the inner scales in the form of providing water and nutrients for the stem, leaves, and blooms. They are also the scales that become infected with diseases first. Although the inner scales also provide nutrients for the whole plant too, they are the main producer of the plant's growth and blooms. After a few seasons (sometimes the first year), the outer scales become used up and will stop or slow down their production of nutrients. If the bulb is too small or the outer scales are diseased, no support. However, you might see the lily bulb develop stems, leaves, and blooms the first year and nothing the following season. This happens because the outer scales are either infected with a disease and die (which in one season eventually spread to the rest of the lily bulb), or they are too small to give support to the inner scales. The lily bulb cannot sustain itself and passes into the great flowering land.

However, if all the "mother" bulb scales are healthy and there are enough nutrients remaining, it may develop new bulblits over the next few years from the outer and inner scales and start producing again. This happens frequently so don't give up on them.

Bottom line? Purchase bulbs that are healthy and large. If the bulb is not large enough, containing the proper amount of nutrients when you plant it, you may not see it produce after the first year or it could be a few more years if any new bulblits develop in size to sustain themselves into a new flowering lily bulb.

Asiatics and Tigers

The lily bulbs in these classes are typically the most hardiest and bloom early, usually from May to the first of July which means they will start to grow and emerge from the ground sometime in late February to the middle of March. They are, in most cases, resistant to diseases. If purchased and planted with too much growth (showing leaves and stems) without properly being "hardened off", the stem breaks or will fall to the ground (appearing to wilt) and will not bloom again until the following season. The bulb's scales will also fall apart when slightly touched. In most cases the bulb will survive, unless it was too dry when planted causing it to absorb too much water, then rot develops and the bulb dies.

However, if the "mother" bulb is healthy, it may develop new bulblits over the next few years from the outer and inner scales (if they are healthy and there is the smallest amount of nutrients remaining) and start producing again. This happens frequently so don't give up on them.

Bottom line? Purchase bulbs that are healthy and large. If the bulb is not large enough, containing the proper amount of nutrients when you plant it, you may not see it produce after the first year or it could be a few more years if any new bulblits develop in size to sustain themselves into a new flowering lily bulb.

Meanwhile, back at the farm...

Growing Plants From Seeds in an Egg Carton

Using pressed paper egg cartons are an inexpensive, easy, and environmentally friendly way to start seeds. Instead of buying costly starter kits, consider making a round of omelets and saving the empty egg cartons. Not only do egg cartons provide perfect cells for seedlings to grow, they also make it easy to transport the plants into your garden and are bio-degradable! Egg cartons are a wonderful tool for starting herbs, annuals and vegetables such as tomatoes, lettuce, and peppers. You will want to place the egg carton inside a solid container (such as a roasting pan). This will prevent the carton from falling apart as the paper pulp becomes wet. You can pull the plants out of the egg cells before planting or let the egg carton dry out slightly, then cut the plant sections with a pair of scissors or sharp knife, and plant outside! The egg carton is made of paper pulp and will degrade in a few months. Perfect.

Instructions & What You Need

• Empty egg carton

• Needle

• Seed

• Plastic wrap

• Spray bottle

• Potting soil or composting mixture

• Solid container (such as a roasting pan) to hold the planted egg carton

1. Place the empty egg carton inside the solid container. Cut the lid off of an empty egg carton. Use scissors or knife to trim along the sides. With a needle, poke three or four holes along the bottom of each egg cell. This will help to drain the cells.
2. Spray the egg carton with water from a spray bottle until it is moist.
3. Fill each cell with potting soil or a composting mix until it is about a quarter of an inch to the brim. Drop seed into each cell. Then cover again with a fine layer of the soil mixture.
4. Place the planted egg carton inside the solid container in a warm, sunny place. You can also place them in a plastic bag or cover them with plastic wrap to preserve heat and moisture. This creates a hothouse for the seeds.
5. Spray the seedlings with water when soil becomes dry. Sprouts usually appear after seven to ten days. Once sprouts appear, remove the plastic covering and place the egg carton in a sunny spot.
6. Observe the sprouts for growth. When the first true leaves appear, it is time for the sprouts to be transplanted. The true leaves grow above the leaves that first push out of the dirt. This usually takes about three to four weeks. Seedlings should be around 1 to 2 inches tall.

Meanwhile, back at the farm...

Receiving and Care for Lily Bulbs Before Planting Outside

What to do Once you Receive your Lily Bulbs:

Perhaps you want to order a particular bulb that gets sold out early in the season, the ground is not ready for planting...when you receive your lily bulbs. Depending upon the variety, once you receive your lilium bulbs, you can store them in a cool, dark place for up to 3 weeks (such as a refrigerator) in potting soil in a plastic or paper bag. I prefer a plastic bag because it will naturally sweat and provide some moisture while storing. Just keep the potting mix damp, not wet. This keeps the bulb cool and prevents too much early growth, especially if you are currently experiencing cold weather (below freezing), you maybe out of town for awhile and can't get to planting right away, the lily is delivered and you just plain forgot about it, or there is snow on the ground and you can't plant outside yet. We always ship our lily bulbs in potting mix for these reasons and more.

You can view several articles on this subject and more about lily care on our web site page: http://www.lilyflowerstore.com/lily-care.html

Common Issues with Oriental Lilies

One of the most common questions or comments I get is "My Stargazer oriental lily has been not producing flowers like it used to and did not even emerge this year. What happened?"

Normally, most lily bulbs are very easy to grow and take very little care. However, there are on occasion, some instances that need investigation to figure out what if anything, went wrong. It's difficult to say just what happened without seeing the bulb before planting and afterwards. There can be many factors involved that created the bulb to die or not produce; planted too shallow, a virus or disease, too wet of soil...So, let's start at the beginning and look at the more common issues.

Oriental and Orienpet lilies are probably the most temperamental to grow. (The Orienpet is cross bred between Orientals and Trumpets...hence the name Orienpet). These two outstanding lily varieties take a little extra care and thought before you plant them. However, they are well worth the extra effort. They are extremely fragrant and produce large, showy flowers and if not cared for and planted properly, they succumb to many environmental and disease problems, especially rot. I am not going to bore you with scientific explanations of each disease but will give you a summary explanation of each disease or virus and focus on control or preventative things you can do to help your bulbs thrive for years to come. Please keep in mind that like all living things, your lily bulbs will eventually succumb to age and eventually expire. Just when this happens is anyone's guess.

ENVIRONMENT

Where to plant is more important than when to plant. Things like drainage, soil texture, air circulation, light, water, food, soil and plant ph all influence the health of your plants. Gardeners who strive to understand the requirements of each particular plant they are growing eliminate those factors which affect the plants in a negative way and increase positive actions for healthier plants.

Take a little extra time in choosing your location and get to know your soil. Orienpets and Orientals do much better when placed in an area where there is morning sun and afternoon shade. Even in the shade, temperatures can reach well over 90 degrees as long as they are not exposed to direct sunlight. If they are, the leaves will scorch or burn and the flower will wilt and spend its' beautiful appearance too soon.

The soil should be healthy and well drained. I always place a handful or so of rich potting soil or well aged compost in the hole during planting. This will revitalize the micro organisms. I will also place about a tablespoon of 10-20-20 commercial fertilizer or even rhododendron fertilizer with no more than 7% iron in the blend. Be sure not to place the Oriental or Orienpet bulb in an area you will be watering often. They only need watering when the stem has emerged and is growing to form its' flower buds. After covering the hole, I will sprinkle a 14-14-14-7 80 % slow release fertilizer at ground level and mark each bulb placement. This is important for all bulbs because once the stem has been spent or dies, you will need to fertilize again and without knowing where the bulb is, you may be wasting the food. You should replant and repeat this process every year or so assuring the "mother bulb" stays healthy, is not placed in water saturated soil, and well nourished therefore producing its' full bloom color and healthy stem.

Above ground feeding: Each Fall and Spring, feed your bulbs with the above mentioned fertilizers and even place a couple of handfuls of rich potting soil around the stems.

VIRUSES AND DISEASES

Probably the most important fact with regards to disease resistance is the overall health of your plants. Like all living things, a healthy vigorous plant is much more resistant to sickness and an organism under stress is extremely susceptible to diseases and insects (I'll address insects in another article soon.

The most common diseases are Botrytis, powdery mildew, and stem and bulb rot. All diseases either occur as a direct result from environmental conditions or the bulbs were infected at the nursery you purchased them from. However, in most cases it's an environmental issue. Let's take a closer look at the causes and some corrective action...

VIRUSES

Viruses are very simple organisms and are nothing more than RNA contained within a protein shell. They are so small and can only be see seen with the aid of an electron microscope. They invade a cell by injecting its own RNA into the cell, hijack the cells' DNA and replace it with the Virus RNA several times. The new viruses grow in the plant cells and mature. Once mature they burst open from the infected cell and move to infect other cells, starting the process all over again. When this happens the normal plant cell functions are disrupted with symptoms showing up on the exterior of the plant surfaces in the form of streaking or molting, twisted growth, reduced plant size and or rings on the bulbs. Many species and some cultivars are more susceptible to viruses, others can tolerate them quite well with little or no symptoms.

These three most common viruses found in lilies are often transmitted by aphids that have bitten into the infected plant and ingest the virus. When they have landed on a non infected plant, they pass the virus to it after biting into it. They are: Lily Symptomless Virus or LVS (the most common), Tulip Breaking Virus or TBV, and Cucumber Mosaic Virus or CMV.

Control: Viruses are extremely (if not impossible) to control with commercial spray treatments. However, there are a few steps you can take to help prevent further infections. 1.) Dig out and destroy the entire plant preferably by burning. 2.) Disinfect your tools immediately, soaking in 100% bleach. 3.) The most important method of controlling viruses is to have good gardening practices and observe your lilies regularly. Be aware that some nutrient deficiencies can cause streaking (resembling a virus infection) in leaves and flowers. The continuing hybridization of viral resistant cultivars will also greatly help to control future problems. Check with whomever you are purchasing from for susceptibility of any lily cultivar.

DISEASES

Fungi are organisms that live in or on plant tissues and thrive on a host plant or in the soil on decaying leaves or wood. They are closely related to mushrooms but do not necessarily grow the fruiting bodies that are known as mush-rooms. The fungi take their nutrients from the plant and destroy the host material. The two most common and recognizable diseases that cause the most problems in lilies are Basal Rot and Botrytis blight. Basal Rot is more destructive to the entire plant because it attacks not only the stem but the bulb also. Botrytis attacks the leaves, stem, and flowers as it weakens the entire plant over time and can kill the lily.

Most fungal diseases can be corrected with commercial sprays, however there are some that cannot. If after several treatments the disease comes back, it is best to destroy the plant and start again with a new, healthy one.

BASAL ROT

Basal rot is caused by two different fungi. Fusarium oxysporum va lilii and Cylindrocarpon. Fusarium has a tendency to attack Asiatics while Cylindrocarpon attacks Orientals and Orienpets. Of the two, Fusarium is the most serious and can exist in the soil for years without a host. It is easily recognized by a dark brown rot that extends into the bulb scales from the basal plate. The scales might fall apart as they become unattached from the mother bulb. The pathogen enters the plant from the roots, moves into the basal plate, and then into the scales. It reproduces by spores which can be carried in the soil by decaying wood or previously infected plant tissue, garden or agricultural tools, packing material, bulbs, and even potting soil.

Basal Rot usually shows symptoms of premature yellowing of foliage, stunting and premature drying of the stalk. Scale bulblets that form from the mother bulb are usually infected. Basal rot will usually destroy the mother bulb and any bulblets that have formed from the basal plate are infected. However, in efforts to survive, the plant may grow large numbers of stem bulblets (located just below ground level and on the main stem) which normally are not infected. So, these can be dug up and planted in another location to continue the cultivar. Do not replant anything, if possible, in the same spot as the infected lily for four years until the spores die. Clean your garden tools and equipment before you plant the new bulblets.

Fusarium is most active in places where soil temperature and moisture level is high. Usually in the North regions (Zone 3, 4, and parts of 5) where soil temps are lower, it's not a problem. Unless you are growing your lily bulbs in a container outside then moving them indoors during the colder periods.

Control: Some final thoughts on basal rot: Once this disease infects a plant, it cannot be corrected or controlled and is useless to try and save it. ALL of the infected plant must be removed and destroyed. However, there are some preventative sprays that can be applied before it becomes infected. Consult with your local extension office or garden center. Plant only healthy, non-infected bulbs and completely get rid of ANY bulbs, scales, and bulblets that show signs of the disease. Stem bublets can be saved.

The best defense is a good offense and is true in controlling infections from occurring. THE BEST OFFENCE IS PRVENTION! Here's some tips:

1.) Avoid fertilizers high in Nitrogen. High Nitrates will cause rapid soft growth of the bulb. Organic fertilizers such as manures and composts must be aged (two to three years) and used ONLY as a top dressing or placed no more than an inch below the surface. Well rotted manures and compost will keep the soil cool and help control Fusarium, which needs warm moist soils to propagate.

2.) Control soil moisture. This is especially true when planting your bulbs in commercial potting mix in containers. In most cases, commercial potting mix contains a wetting agent which keeps the mix moist, even in dry conditions.

Lilies do not require a lot of moisture to thrive. Avoid overwatering during the months of hot temperatures. When planting in a landscape area, make sure the soil is well drained and light in texture. Light, well drained soils are better than heavy soils thus reducing the moisture that Fusarium needs to survive. This will not affect the bulbs too much because they store moisture in the scales.

3.) Fusarium likes acidic soils and adding some lime at the time of planting and each year along with fertilizing, will increase the pH to a more neutral or alkaline level is advisable in some soils.

4.) Avoid damaging the bulbs during planting, transplanting, and weeding. Any lesions (this includes scales that have been removed) will be an entrance for the fungi.

5.) If possible, try to purchase resistant varieties as chemical control is becoming limited for various reasons.

BOTRYTIS

Botrytis is caused by two species of fungi (B.elliptica and B.cinerea) which attack the above ground plant parts. B.elliptica is the more destructive of the two and both fungi can be found on the same plant at the same time. B.cinerea attacks the leaves, open flowers, and seed pods in cool summer weather and late fall. The warm, moist coastal regions of the Pacific Northwest or western coast regions of Britain are often called "Botrytis Climates". Dry, cooler climates are rarely affected.

The fungus will over winter on the leaves of the previous year and produce spores in the summer months that are spread by wind or splashing water. The first sign of Botrytis are white spots on the leaves then becoming teardrop shaped on the upper surface. They are lighter in color on the margins and darker in the center. As the attack continues, the leaf collapses and decays and the fungus produces more spores on the decaying leaf.

CONTROL: Botrytis only attacks the surface of the plant and will spread to other surfaces or neighboring plants as more spores develop. Moisture is essential to the spread of this fungi, therefore careful watering practices should be followed. It is better to use soaker hoses or drip line method rather than over the head or top sprinkler type watering. Good air circulation is also important for this disease as well as others in order to dry the leaves as soon as possible after watering or rain occurs. Try not get the leaves or the flowers wet. Look for infected leaves and remove them asap while they are still wet. This will stop or prohibit the spread of the fungi. Warm, dry sunny weather aids in controlling the fungi.

There are commercial fungicides that can prevent and control this disease. Be careful when using these products, either commercial or non-commercial.

ROOT ROT

Root rot is not a disease but is directly associated with poor drainage. If a bulb or any other plant is placed where there is little or no drainage for water, then it continuously sits in water and the roots along with the bulb eventually rots. Lack of good soil aeration, planting in thick heavy fine textured soils like clay, is detrimental to lily bulbs. To prevent this from occurring, plant in light airy soils that drain water quickly so the roots and bulb do not sit in water for long periods of time. Roots need oxygen and being in water provides little or no oxygen.

The Pilot's Family

For the last 27 years, I have been selling Christmas trees. The plan was to plant and sell just enough to help my children through college or whatever they needed the money for. Well, one thing led to another and three acres turned into twelve.

Ok, the picture. No, it's not my family or even me. They are what I affectionately call "The Pilot's Family" and over the last twelve years or so, have become very good friends.

First of all, let's introduce you to them. From right to left is Mark (the father), Stephen (the oldest son), Heather (the wife and mother), Mellisa (the youngest daughter), and Garret (the middle son).

At the time I first met them, Mark (who is a commercial airline pilot), was not with Heather and was working flying the friendly skies. I was using my front porch for a greeting area and to serve hot chocolate (boy, have things changed since then). I was inside the house eating lunch when I heard a faint yet confident knock on the door. As I opened the door, this tiny woman, all bundled in warm clothes and with a smile that could make the darkest day seem as bright as the sun, asked if she could get some help finding a tree. As I recall, Stephen was about five and Garret was about two (no Mellisa, yet). Stephen promptly and proud as a peacock said that his dad was an airline pilot and couldn't be here today. So, I put on my boots, and away we went (chain saw in hand). All Stephen could proudly talk about was "his dad is flying and when he came home, the decorations for the tree and the house were going up. Mom said we are not going to decorate until dad comes home". To this day, Stephen won't say much but when you ask him something...Very nice! Garret wasn't saying much, rather taking the whole experience in and trying to hang on to mom.

Well, some time passed and Heather found the tree she wanted, asked the boys if it was OK, and they approved. Then I started the chain saw to cut it down. Holy smokes, I thought Stephen's eyes were going to pop out of his head! I think he said something like "that thing sure is loud!" After shaking and placing the tree on her vehicle, we made it back to the porch for some hot chocolate and conversation. It was some years before I met Mark and with the warm handshake and conversation I knew this would turn into a lasting friendship.

A few years passed and along comes Mellisa. Heather and Mark had her all bundled up in warm clothing when I first saw her and I thought I was going to melt like freshly fallen snow on a summer's day. She reminds me of my daughter in a lot of ways. The look of mischief in her eyes but very well behaved, princess like yet just a little hint of a "tom boy", and laughter in her smile. This year was exceptional when they arrived. I was finishing late trimming on some small trees near the warming shed when I caught her out of the corner of my eye, under one of the larger trees. I knew it was her, she was leaning over with her hands on her knees facing me in her pink boots and said "Hi!" in that little mischievous voice. She ran up and gave me a big hug and that was nice. We then walked over to the shed and I greeted the rest of the family...I was glad to see them all. We talked about what they have been doing for the past year, how the family is growing, and how fun it is to watch the kids grow and change.

My point to all of this is that any business and this tree farm should not be just about making money, that is not the highest priority. It's about making friends. As I reflect back over the last twenty years of having this farm, I think of all the friends I have made and the smiles and happiness that comes here. For me, it is truly one of the best time of year!