The Plant Whisperer

Feed Birds All Year

2011-01-05T12:47:00.000-08:00

Feed Birds All Year...Everybody Wins!

Feed Birds all Year? Of Course. Here's why:

In winter, you're providing much needed calories for cold birds by setting out food (no secret here). In return, you'll get a great deal of enjoyment from watching them and all the different varieties of birds that come to your feeders, adding color and life to a drab winter landscape, and helping those seemingly endless months pass a bit more quickly.

Spring may be the most important time to feed our fine feathered friends. Many people put their feeders away, or simply stop filling them with much needed nourishment, as the weather gets warmer and the grass turns green. However, the insects many birds rely upon as a primary source of food in warm weather take awhile to populate and emerge to sustain them. Meanwhile, birds are establishing their territories, building nests, courting, and preparing to raise their young...all activities that require a lot of nutrition! Keeping your feeders active in the spring ensures that you will have a vibrant, diverse population of birds in your yard and that you're doing your part for the next generation of "tweeties".

Summer feeding will benefit you more than your backyard birds! Here's why: With summer's dense foliage and more than plentiful insects, birds will feast in hiding where you can't see them. And if you continually bring out food, you'll bring birds and keep them there (it's kind of like a smorgas board effect) in their glorious summer plumage...up close where you can see and enjoy them. Summers' a great time to supplement your flowers with nectar, fruit, and jelly feeders to lure in orioles (Eastern U.S.) and hummingbirds. Fruits like apple halves and chunks of cantaloupe will also bring in jays, cardinals, tanagers, and a host of other feathered visitors.

As flowers, fruit, insects, and weed (that's right...weeds) seeds begin to become scarce with the onset of colder weather, it's important to supplement your back yard birds' diet with seeds, suet, and other favorites. You'll find more birds arriving and staying at your feeders as the fall migrations bring more birds down from the North. Feeders that are already buzzing with activity will act like a beacon or billboard signaling the new arrivals that dinner is on...and it's free!

The biggest benefits of feeding birds year 'round is that you'll always have plenty of birds to enjoy, and you'll never have that agonizing wait every winter for them to "discover" your feeders. You'll also have the personal satisfaction of knowing that you're not only helping bird populations, but the environment, too!

When you feed birds, it's like a continuous circle. More baby birds survive, more birds eat more bugs so you'll need less chemicals to control them. We all know that using fewer chemicals makes sense. Enjoy!

Meanwhile, back at the farm...

Common Issues with Oriental Lilies

2010-12-31T05:50:00.000-08:00

One of the most common questions or comments I get is "My Stargazer oriental lily has been not producing flowers like it used to and did not even emerge this year. What happened?"

Normally, most lily bulbs are very easy to grow and take very little care. However, there are on occasion, some instances that need investigation to figure out what if anything, went wrong. It's difficult to say just what happened without seeing the bulb before planting and afterwards. There can be many factors involved that created the bulb to die or not produce; planted too shallow, a virus or disease, too wet of soil...So, let's start at the beginning and look at the more common issues.

Oriental and Orienpet lilies are probably the most temperamental to grow. (The Orienpet is cross bred between Orientals and Trumpets...hence the name Orienpet). These two outstanding lily varieties take a little extra care and thought before you plant them. However, they are well worth the extra effort. They are extremely fragrant and produce large, showy flowers and if not cared for and planted properly, they succumb to many environmental and disease problems, especially rot. I am not going to bore you with scientific explanations of each disease but will give you a summary explanation of each disease or virus and focus on control or preventative things you can do to help your bulbs thrive for years to come. Please keep in mind that like all living things, your lily bulbs will eventually succumb to age and eventually expire. Just when this happens is anyone's guess.

ENVIRONMENT

Where to plant is more important than when to plant. Things like drainage, soil texture, air circulation, light, water, food, soil and plant ph all influence the health of your plants. Gardeners who strive to understand the requirements of each particular plant they are growing eliminate those factors which affect the plants in a negative way and increase positive actions for healthier plants.

Take a little extra time in choosing your location and get to know your soil. Orienpets and Orientals do much better when placed in an area where there is morning sun and afternoon shade. Even in the shade, temperatures can reach well over 90 degrees as long as they are not exposed to direct sunlight. If they are, the leaves will scorch or burn and the flower will wilt and spend its' beautiful appearance too soon.

The soil should be healthy and well drained. I always place a handful or so of rich potting soil or well aged compost in the hole during planting. This will revitalize the micro organisms. I will also place about a tablespoon of 10-20-20 commercial fertilizer or even rhododendron fertilizer with no more than 7% iron in the blend. Be sure not to place the Oriental or Orienpet bulb in an area you will be watering often. They only need watering when the stem has emerged and is growing to form its' flower buds. After covering the hole, I will sprinkle a 14-14-14-7 80 % slow release fertilizer at ground level and mark each bulb placement. This is important for all bulbs because once the stem has been spent or dies, you will need to fertilize again and without knowing where the bulb is, you may be wasting the food. You should replant and repeat this process every year or so assuring the "mother bulb" stays healthy, is not placed in water saturated soil, and well nourished therefore producing its' full bloom color and healthy stem.

Above ground feeding: Each Fall and Spring, feed your bulbs with the above mentioned fertilizers and even place a couple of handfuls of rich potting soil around the stems.

VIRUSES AND DISEASES

Probably the most important fact with regards to disease resistance is the overall health of your plants. Like all living things, a healthy vigorous plant is much more resistant to sickness and an organism under stress is extremely susceptible to diseases and insects (I'll address insects in another article soon.

The most common diseases are Botrytis, powdery mildew, and stem and bulb rot. All diseases either occur as a direct result from environmental conditions or the bulbs were infected at the nursery you purchased them from. However, in most cases it's an environmental issue. Let's take a closer look at the causes and some corrective action...

VIRUSES

Viruses are very simple organisms and are nothing more than RNA contained within a protein shell. They are so small and can only be see seen with the aid of an electron microscope. They invade a cell by injecting its own RNA into the cell, hijack the cells' DNA and replace it with the Virus RNA several times. The new viruses grow in the plant cells and mature. Once mature they burst open from the infected cell and move to infect other cells, starting the process all over again. When this happens the normal plant cell functions are disrupted with symptoms showing up on the exterior of the plant surfaces in the form of streaking or molting, twisted growth, reduced plant size and or rings on the bulbs. Many species and some cultivars are more susceptible to viruses, others can tolerate them quite well with little or no symptoms.

These three most common viruses found in lilies are often transmitted by aphids that have bitten into the infected plant and ingest the virus. When they have landed on a non infected plant, they pass the virus to it after biting into it. They are: Lily Symptomless Virus or LVS (the most common), Tulip Breaking Virus or TBV, and Cucumber Mosaic Virus or CMV.

Control: Viruses are extremely (if not impossible) to control with commercial spray treatments. However, there are a few steps you can take to help prevent further infections. 1.) Dig out and destroy the entire plant preferably by burning. 2.) Disinfect your tools immediately, soaking in 100% bleach. 3.) The most important method of controlling viruses is to have good gardening practices and observe your lilies regularly. Be aware that some nutrient deficiencies can cause streaking (resembling a virus infection) in leaves and flowers. The continuing hybridization of viral resistant cultivars will also greatly help to control future problems. Check with whomever you are purchasing from for susceptibility of any lily cultivar.

DISEASES

Fungi are organisms that live in or on plant tissues and thrive on a host plant or in the soil on decaying leaves or wood. They are closely related to mushrooms but do not necessarily grow the fruiting bodies that are known as mush-rooms. The fungi take their nutrients from the plant and destroy the host material. The two most common and recognizable diseases that cause the most problems in lilies are Basal Rot and Botrytis blight. Basal Rot is more destructive to the entire plant because it attacks not only the stem but the bulb also. Botrytis attacks the leaves, stem, and flowers as it weakens the entire plant over time and can kill the lily.

Most fungal diseases can be corrected with commercial sprays, however there are some that cannot. If after several treatments the disease comes back, it is best to destroy the plant and start again with a new, healthy one.

BASAL ROT

Basal rot is caused by two different fungi. Fusarium oxysporum va lilii and Cylindrocarpon. Fusarium has a tendency to attack Asiatics while Cylindrocarpon attacks Orientals and Orienpets. Of the two, Fusarium is the most serious and can exist in the soil for years without a host. It is easily recognized by a dark brown rot that extends into the bulb scales from the basal plate. The scales might fall apart as they become unattached from the mother bulb. The pathogen enters the plant from the roots, moves into the basal plate, and then into the scales. It reproduces by spores which can be carried in the soil by decaying wood or previously infected plant tissue, garden or agricultural tools, packing material, bulbs, and even potting soil.

Basal Rot usually shows symptoms of premature yellowing of foliage, stunting and premature drying of the stalk. Scale bulblets that form from the mother bulb are usually infected. Basal rot will usually destroy the mother bulb and any bulblets that have formed from the basal plate are infected. However, in efforts to survive, the plant may grow large numbers of stem bulblets (located just below ground level and on the main stem) which normally are not infected. So, these can be dug up and planted in another location to continue the cultivar. Do not replant anything, if possible, in the same spot as the infected lily for four years until the spores die. Clean your garden tools and equipment before you plant the new bulblets.

Fusarium is most active in places where soil temperature and moisture level is high. Usually in the North regions (Zone 3, 4, and parts of 5) where soil temps are lower, it's not a problem. Unless you are growing your lily bulbs in a container outside then moving them indoors during the colder periods.

Control: Some final thoughts on basal rot: Once this disease infects a plant, it cannot be corrected or controlled and is useless to try and save it. ALL of the infected plant must be removed and destroyed. However, there are some preventative sprays that can be applied before it becomes infected. Consult with your local extension office or garden center. Plant only healthy, non-infected bulbs and completely get rid of ANY bulbs, scales, and bulblets that show signs of the disease. Stem bublets can be saved.

The best defense is a good offense and is true in controlling infections from occurring. THE BEST OFFENCE IS PRVENTION! Here's some tips:

1.) Avoid fertilizers high in Nitrogen. High Nitrates will cause rapid soft growth of the bulb. Organic fertilizers such as manures and composts must be aged (two to three years) and used ONLY as a top dressing or placed no more than an inch below the surface. Well rotted manures and compost will keep the soil cool and help control Fusarium, which needs warm moist soils to propagate.

2.) Control soil moisture. This is especially true when planting your bulbs in commercial potting mix in containers. In most cases, commercial potting mix contains a wetting agent which keeps the mix moist, even in dry conditions.

Lilies do not require a lot of moisture to thrive. Avoid overwatering during the months of hot temperatures. When planting in a landscape area, make sure the soil is well drained and light in texture. Light, well drained soils are better than heavy soils thus reducing the moisture that Fusarium needs to survive. This will not affect the bulbs too much because they store moisture in the scales.

3.) Fusarium likes acidic soils and adding some lime at the time of planting and each year along with fertilizing, will increase the pH to a more neutral or alkaline level is advisable in some soils.

4.) Avoid damaging the bulbs during planting, transplanting, and weeding. Any lesions (this includes scales that have been removed) will be an entrance for the fungi.

5.) If possible, try to purchase resistant varieties as chemical control is becoming limited for various reasons.

BOTRYTIS

Botrytis is caused by two species of fungi (B.elliptica and B.cinerea) which attack the above ground plant parts. B.elliptica is the more destructive of the two and both fungi can be found on the same plant at the same time. B.cinerea attacks the leaves, open flowers, and seed pods in cool summer weather and late fall. The warm, moist coastal regions of the Pacific Northwest or western coast regions of Britain are often called "Botrytis Climates". Dry, cooler climates are rarely affected.

The fungus will over winter on the leaves of the previous year and produce spores in the summer months that are spread by wind or splashing water. The first sign of Botrytis are white spots on the leaves then becoming teardrop shaped on the upper surface. They are lighter in color on the margins and darker in the center. As the attack continues, the leaf collapses and decays and the fungus produces more spores on the decaying leaf.

CONTROL: Botrytis only attacks the surface of the plant and will spread to other surfaces or neighboring plants as more spores develop. Moisture is essential to the spread of this fungi, therefore careful watering practices should be followed. It is better to use soaker hoses or drip line method rather than over the head or top sprinkler type watering. Good air circulation is also important for this disease as well as others in order to dry the leaves as soon as possible after watering or rain occurs. Try not get the leaves or the flowers wet. Look for infected leaves and remove them asap while they are still wet. This will stop or prohibit the spread of the fungi. Warm, dry sunny weather aids in controlling the fungi.

There are commercial fungicides that can prevent and control this disease. Be careful when using these products, either commercial or non-commercial.

ROOT ROT

Root rot is not a disease but is directly associated with poor drainage. If a bulb or any other plant is placed where there is little or no drainage for water, then it continuously sits in water and the roots along with the bulb eventually rots. Lack of good soil aeration, planting in thick heavy fine textured soils like clay, is detrimental to lily bulbs. To prevent this from occurring, plant in light airy soils that drain water quickly so the roots and bulb do not sit in water for long periods of time. Roots need oxygen and being in water provides little or no oxygen.

The Pilot's Family

2010-12-29T07:18:00.000-08:00

For the last 27 years, I have been selling Christmas trees. The plan was to plant and sell just enough to help my children through college or whatever they needed the money for. Well, one thing led to another and three acres turned into twelve.

Ok, the picture. No, it's not my family or even me. They are what I affectionately call "The Pilot's Family" and over the last twelve years or so, have become very good friends.

First of all, let's introduce you to them. From right to left is Mark (the father), Stephen (the oldest son), Heather (the wife and mother), Mellisa (the youngest daughter), and Garret (the middle son).

At the time I first met them, Mark (who is a commercial airline pilot), was not with Heather and was working flying the friendly skies. I was using my front porch for a greeting area and to serve hot chocolate (boy, have things changed since then). I was inside the house eating lunch when I heard a faint yet confident knock on the door. As I opened the door, this tiny woman, all bundled in warm clothes and with a smile that could make the darkest day seem as bright as the sun, asked if she could get some help finding a tree. As I recall, Stephen was about five and Garret was about two (no Mellisa, yet). Stephen promptly and proud as a peacock said that his dad was an airline pilot and couldn't be here today. So, I put on my boots, and away we went (chain saw in hand). All Stephen could proudly talk about was "his dad is flying and when he came home, the decorations for the tree and the house were going up. Mom said we are not going to decorate until dad comes home". To this day, Stephen won't say much but when you ask him something...Very nice! Garret wasn't saying much, rather taking the whole experience in and trying to hang on to mom.

Well, some time passed and Heather found the tree she wanted, asked the boys if it was OK, and they approved. Then I started the chain saw to cut it down. Holy smokes, I thought Stephen's eyes were going to pop out of his head! I think he said something like "that thing sure is loud!" After shaking and placing the tree on her vehicle, we made it back to the porch for some hot chocolate and conversation. It was some years before I met Mark and with the warm handshake and conversation I knew this would turn into a lasting friendship.

A few years passed and along comes Mellisa. Heather and Mark had her all bundled up in warm clothing when I first saw her and I thought I was going to melt like freshly fallen snow on a summer's day. She reminds me of my daughter in a lot of ways. The look of mischief in her eyes but very well behaved, princess like yet just a little hint of a "tom boy", and laughter in her smile. This year was exceptional when they arrived. I was finishing late trimming on some small trees near the warming shed when I caught her out of the corner of my eye, under one of the larger trees. I knew it was her, she was leaning over with her hands on her knees facing me in her pink boots and said "Hi!" in that little mischievous voice. She ran up and gave me a big hug and that was nice. We then walked over to the shed and I greeted the rest of the family...I was glad to see them all. We talked about what they have been doing for the past year, how the family is growing, and how fun it is to watch the kids grow and change.

My point to all of this is that any business and this tree farm should not be just about making money, that is not the highest priority. It's about making friends. As I reflect back over the last twenty years of having this farm, I think of all the friends I have made and the smiles and happiness that comes here. For me, it is truly one of the best time of year!

Recycle the Tree

2010-12-29T06:36:00.000-08:00

Well, Christmas season is over and a New Year will be beginning shortly. Remember to re-cylcle your real tree (fake trees I guess go back into the box and stored in the garage or attack). Many non-profit organizations will do this for a small fee. The material is then used as garden mulch or landscape
ground cover.

I did see a lot of new people (as well as some old friends) this year at the farm that have never cut their own tree or have never had a real tree before for the holiday season. Maybe this "Green" thing is taking off and people are now aware of fake tree's carbon foot print. You can learn more of that on my web site.

A lot of winter crocus have started blooming (great to see some flowers in the yard during the winter months). It won't too long for the tulips and daffodils start showing off. If you haven't planted any yet, there is still plenty of time. The bulbs will start showing up in all the stores (if they haven't already). Next bulbs in line will be the Lilies. What a great, long lasting show they put on, starting as early as May and all the way into September. Nice to have fresh cut flowers from the yard in the house.

Well, anyway, until next time and meanwhile, back at the farm...

Time

2010-12-28T05:21:00.000-08:00

Wow! Time is really flying.

A lot has happened since my last post...web site failed, fishing time, trying to stay afloat in this economy, tree farm sales. Well, here it is almost the New Year and I hope you all have a safe and pleasant new year.

Just a few thoughts on web site development and "so called" web masters.

My experience with these people has not been a good one. I'll not get into details, but the last one cost me a lot of money in lost revenue. I was OK with the fees but not the actual web site work he did. It has been a living nightmare for me.

First of all, be wary of who you hire, where you hire them from, and get plenty of referrals. Contact who they have worked for in the past and if you have any bad feelings move on to someone else. Always have a contract or written agreement and make sure you have time limits set in your agreement.

The shopping cart is one of the most important parts of any web site. Stay away from the "open source" free carts. They will cause more problems than you bargain for. Remember, nothing is free and you get what you pay for! There is absolutely no support with this type of shopping cart and you better know code and how to "tweek" it or you are lost in space. Spend the extra money and purchase the cart, either on a monthly basis or flat out own it. You'll at least have help and support from the developer. You may have to spend a little more on the cart and have it customized to your particular business, but the extra money spent is well worth it in the long run. One final thought, here. Spend a lot of time researching the shopping cart and make sure it will satisfy your needs, now and in the future.

Well, I hope this year has been good to all and next year is even better.

Meanwhile, back at the farm...

2010-08-04T15:23:00.000-07:00

Here it is Wednesday once again.

Forest Grove has their Farmer's Market on Wednesday evening.

Ive gone before..It did seem that it was more of a social gathering for the town then a real market.

Mean While Back @ The Farm

2010-07-19T09:08:00.000-07:00

Here's a sight you don't see very often. Kenn walking in downtown Portland streets pulling a wagon full of his lilies.
Anka Gallery invited us to bring in some more of our lilies for the showing they had last week.
We had to park around the corner and wheel them into the gallery.
Mean While Back @ The Farm

Sunday

2010-07-18T15:41:00.000-07:00

Its one of those Sunday's that feel's like a weekday. Not sure why...but all day it has felt that way.
We had a customer come to the farm yesterday to buy one of the bird feeder's that we have on display at the bank. That make two feeder's to be sold from having it them on display. Yahooooo
Everyone that see's them tells us how great they are. Just wished more people would put their money where their mouth is.....Do you think people buy more bird feeder's as winter approaches??
I know I don't put out as much feed in the warmer months...in fact I haven't put any out for
some time now...I know in the winter I was putting out peanut butter in the hanging log's feeder's Kenn made, I also bought suet cakes, and tons of bird food. We get all kinds of birds here in the winter months, it funny to see the quail that run like little trains in a line across the ground.
I love seeing the hawk's soar over head and hearing their high pitch screech....I haven't seen much of them this year. A couple of years ago they raided a robin's nest high in one of the tallest fir tree's. Boy did the make a ruckus But alas....the hawk's won out.
We also get vultures here...They just soar in circles high on the wind current.

Mean While Back @ The Farm

2010-07-13T09:09:00.000-07:00

Did you know Day lilies are edible? They are...Some say parts can taste like lettuce, some say like asparagus. We had a wonderful couple stop by the farm to pick up some day lilies to eat. Its like you can have your flower's and eat them too.

Mean While Back @ The Farm

2010-07-06T17:25:00.000-07:00

If your in the Portland Or area, our Oriental and Orienpet lilies are coming into bloom and you'll be able to see them at Hillsboro Farmer's Market in good old downtown Hillsboro, OR

On Saturday July 10th. The bell goes off @ 8:00 and goes until 1:30. We have some great lilies...and there is a wonderful water fountain for the young at heart to run thru. If your hungry...They have some great food vendor's to get a bite to eat at the market
You can find us @:
233 East Main Street
Hillsboro, OR 97123-4066
www.hillsboromarkets.org

every weekend until the cows come home or the deer and the antelope play! We'll also be displaying our exxxxtra ordinary
bird feeders that actually attract your favorite birds.

Meanwhile, back at the farm....

Tuesday

2010-07-06T10:57:00.000-07:00

We are very busy with getting our lilies to Farmer's Market. We are really jazzed to have this going so well for us.

We are finally getting summer type weather here on top of David Hill. We took our potted lilies and moved them into the shade yesterday. Boy..Was that a chore or what...But worth it. It will help the lilies not to burn up in this very hot heat.

Mean While Back @ The Farm

Saturday

2010-07-03T15:54:00.000-07:00

We had a great time when we went fishing this trip. We stayed at this great place that had their own dock so we were able to tie the boat up at night....then just hop in to it in the morning with out having to mess with the trailer. We are hoping to go back again in October.
Today we are just getting around to getting the smoker out and smoking some of the salmon we caught. It will take about 4 hours in the smoker. We are using cherry tree branches for the wood.
Nothing like smoked salmon and cream cheese on crackers. Yummy!!

Mean While Back @ The Farm

2010-07-02T08:51:00.000-07:00

Good Morning

We took a trip with the camera to Fernhill
wetlands on a sunny Sunday. It was one of those rare days we took time to do something away from the farm duties. It is a great place to view and take picture of many varieties of birds. The wetlands has a really nice path to walk or bike along the water. I do enjoy taking wildlife pictures. ...It was the first time for me to see baby duck in the water, they are soooooooo cute.
I better get to my chores..
Mean While Back @ The Farm

Thurday First day of July

2010-07-01T12:15:00.000-07:00

Hello and welcome back.
We are very excited to be asked to bring in some of our bird feeder's at the bank that Kenn uses.

The feeder's will be on display for a month there. This is such a great chance to get the feeder's out in the public.
We sold one right as we were setting this display up!
How cool is that!

Mean While Back @ The Farm

Happy 4th of July weekend!

2010-06-30T09:27:00.000-07:00

This weekend is the 4th of July weekend.
We are looking forward to going to the Fireworks that the Fort of Vancouver puts out.
Last years was the first time in my life time of living here they did not have it for the lack of money. This year they will require you to pay to get in....which before they ask nothing...and then ask for donations of money.
They say it is the biggest show this side of the Mississippi. If you ever have the chance to go...it is an outstanding show. Just remember even though its hot during the day....you better bring a blanket...it gets really cold at 10:00 at night.
Mean While Back @ The Farm

2010-06-30T09:04:00.000-07:00

We are very excited to be asked to take our lilies into Anka gallery in downtown Portland. This is a wonderful invitation to showcase our lilies.
We took them in last night and Thursday will be the opening for their show. If your wondering what the flower pictured is...Its Loretto. This is still blooming in our yard at the farm today as I write this.
Mean While Back @ The Farm

Monday

2010-06-28T09:15:00.000-07:00

Today we are highlighting the works of Scott Parry. Scott most recently had his art work in a showing at Anka Gallery in down town Portland.
Scott's work is a wonderful mix of abstracted and sense of humor.
This picture was taken in front of some of his work he had hanging in the gallery. Scott is the gentleman on the right....He is surrounded by is wonderful family..Emma daughter...His loving Wife..Katie...and his supportive dad..Kenn.
We are so proud of him!
Mean While Back @ The Farm

Sunday Morning

2010-06-27T08:54:00.000-07:00

Good Morning
I hope you all have your coffee and reading the Sunday paper on the back deck.
It looks as if our summer had finally arrived. You can always tell with us for we have the sunburnt necks and the farmer's tan on the arms.
We had a very successful day at farmer's market. The lily's are just now starting to bloom and boy do they look great.
The one I have pictured here is Pandora's Box. It is one of our best selling Day lily. We take our own pictures for the catalog and the website because we find that a lot of the other lily suppliers colorize their pictures so you are not getting a true idea of what the flower's will look like. It sure makes the flower's look great when they do that...but its not what your really getting. I do love to take my own pictures...
I better get to my day here on the farm...We are having a BBQ tonight with this great weather.
Mean While Back @ The Farm

Friday

2010-06-25T09:45:00.000-07:00

Good Morning
We have been very busy harvesting our lily's this year. Our grow bin's are just busting at the seams with
our summer blooms. We are always amazed at how beautiful the blooms are. Each day we go up and check the bins .We find a new one that has bloomed. We feel like little kids at Christmas each time a new color opens up.
We have a garden center we supply our lilies to in McMinnville. He really likes the variety we bring him. He tells us once the lilies start blooming he can't keep them on the shelf.
We bring him the exotic colors...not the box store colors you can find anywhere.
If your wondering what the meaning of box stores is... they are like your Walmart, Fred Meyers, Home depot.
We will be loading the truck and trailer with lilies today so we will be ready for farmer's market.
We get so many question's about how to grow lilies. They are really very easy.
If you have every grown a tulip or daffodil you can grow a lily.
The Day lily is tuber...much like a iris, but not as invasive. The day lily stays in more of clump with the roots. The other lilies...oreinpets, asiatic,oriental and tiger lilies all are a bulb. They will reproduce making what they call a bulblet. This is just a small bulb that will give you another stock next year. You can dig them and and move them in the early spring if you like..or leave them to grow a nice clump of wonderful color.
Mean While Back @ The Farm

June 2010

2010-06-23T07:33:00.000-07:00

Good Morning
Well let me get you caught up on what we have been doing since your last visit.
We had a real good selling season for the lily's here on the farm and thru the website.
Many people don't realize that we can ship day lily's year round. We do ship them with some soil and trim them back which cause's no problem for them.
They will not bloom this year if you order them thru the website during the summer, but will do great next summer for you.
Now we are taking our selling season to farmer's market in Hillsboro here in Oregon.
The lily's are blooming later then expected this year from the rain and lack of sun.
Going into farmer's market is a lot of work. On Saturday we rise at 5:00am to get there
by 6:00. we have to get unloaded, we like to take a good variety so that mean we can unload about 100 or more pots of our lily's..set up, we take our tent and racks to set the lily's on..and then be ready by 8:00, when they ring a bell and the official day of selling begins. Then we all hang out until 1:30, they ring another bell and we pack up all the lily's which takes us about an hour and head back to the farm.
We love hearing the compliments on how we have so many unusual and unique lily variety's.
The double bloomer in the picture above is named..Distant Drum this one is new to us this year and I'm very excited to see this bloom.
We have added bird feeders to our items we are selling. The feeder's are made from cedar and the trim is used from the tree's right here on our farm.
We are very excited about this new item and hope to really get this new product off the ground.
We have a couple of them up here on the farm...and I just can't keep them full , they hold up to
8 lb of seed, and the way they are built not much seed hits the ground.
We have a sunny day outside today so I better get to my chores.
Mean while back @ the Farm

Homemade Suet Feeder for Less than Six Dollars!

2010-02-13T09:03:00.000-08:00

Using tools you probably already have… here’s a great, inexpensive, home made suet feeder log for our fine feathered friends for less than $6.00!

What you’ll need: one piece of DRY round wood two to three inches in diameter 14 to 16 inches long, one or one and a half inch wood bit, a 3/8 inch drill bit, electric drill, 2 closed eye or open eye hooks (large and long enough so they don’t pull out of the wood), a 24 inch piece of chain or other hanging material (I use decorative chain so the weather won’t deteriate it), 1 small “S” hook, chunky style peanut butter, one commercial type suet feeder cage and cake with hanging chain, 6 branches six to eight inches in length and 3/8 inches in diameter (you can use just about any type but I prefer hardwood such as apple, cherry, birch, etc.), a hammer, a pair of pliers or vise grip.

First, drill your six suet holes one inch deep at a slightly upwards angle (this allows water to run out of the hole) spaced in a scatter manner enough to allow the birds room to maneuver. Then drill the branch holes about one or two inches below the suet hole at a slightly upwards angle. Be sure to remove all wood chips from each hole.

Next, place the hanging hooks into the center of your wood log, top and bottom. Then, attach the “S” hook at one end of the chain, closing the end of the hook over the chain with a hammer, pair of pliers, or vise grip.

You are almost ready to hang your suet feeder. But first, using a spoon fill the large holes in the log with chunky peanut butter (the holes will take two to three spoonfuls to fill). Next, place your six to eight inch long branches in the holes below the suet hole. Do not glue them in place because you will want to remove the branches when you refill the larger holes! Much easier!

Now you are ready to hang the suet feeder log! Loop the chain over a strong branch on a tree (the feeder should hang down about head high or higher to allow room for the commercial suet feeder) and feed the “S” hook into the chain. Place the suet cake into the commercial suet feeder cage then attach to the bottom hook (adjusting the height with its’ supplied chain, if necessary). WALA!

It took me less than an hour to make and place this suet feeder! The birds absolutely love it! Enjoy!

Meanwhile, back at the farm…

Fertilizing Woody Plants and Trees

2010-02-13T07:38:00.000-08:00

Mid February to early March is the time to feed your woody plans and shrubs: Rhodies, Azaleas, Roses, etc. Any fertilizer with a nitrogen count of less than twelve percent and high potash and phosphorus count along with a five to six percent iron in the blend is what they need. 12-20-20-5, 9-10-16-6, or any commercial Rhododendron food is ok. Don’t be afraid to use this blend on other plants as well such as roses, bulbs (if you know where they are), day lilies, trees of any variety (especially fruit), and more. Do not use more than 12% nitrogen as this will give your plants too much growth. The high mineral count is used to build better blooms, roots, and a healthy, overall plant structure.

Any plant that has a circumference of more than 24 inches, evenly spread one cup of fertilizer around the drip line. Less than 24 inches, use one half cup. If applying your plant food without slow release nitrogen, you will want to feed three times before fall. With slow release, feed once now and again at mid-summer.

Meanwhile, back at the farm…

Fertlizer Blends and What They Mean

2010-02-01T08:58:00.000-08:00

Fertilizing

It is the time to start your shrub and tree fertilizing program. All plants need food through out the year…spring, summer, fall, and even winter! Just how much and how often depends on a lot of factors, which I will address in my next blog.

Let’s start with just what the heck the numbers mean in a fertilizer blend. When selecting a fertilizer – whether it’s for annuals, vegetable gardens, trees and shrubs, perennials or lawns – the first question to answer is, “What analysis do I need?” The analysis is actually the three large numbers you see on every fertilizer label – put there by law – such as 10-20-10 or 10-10-10 or 21-7-14. These numbers represent the percentage (by weight) of the three major nutrients required for healthy plant growth, always in the same order: Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium (N-P-K). Each of these nutrients affects plant growth differently, and the formulation you select should depend on your specific plants, trees, or shrubs you are feeding.

The first number is the percentage of nitrogen in the mix. So a bag of 24-10-0 has 24 percent total nitrogen. Nitrogen provides plants with the ability to produce more chlorophyll, which in turn allows plants to grow quickly. With each additional nitrogen application, plants will grow taller and develop a darker green color. So if you want a dark green lawn, use a lawn fertilizer that’s high in nitrogen – but then expect to mow more often.

The second number in the analysis is the percentage of phosphorus in the mix. For example, a bag of 10-20-20 would contain 20 percent phosphorus. Phosphorous aids in root development and increases the flowering ability and bloom size. The fertilizer industry markets high phosphorus fertilizer as bloom builder food. High-phosphorous fertilizer should be used when plants are being established in your garden – when sowing a new lawn or planting a new tree, for instance.

The third number represents the percentage of potassium found in the product. A bag of 10-10-20 has 20 percent potassium in the mix. Potassium has many functions: It guards the plant against diseases and aids in drought protection and cold tolerance. It also serves a role in improving root development and helps in the process of photosynthesis. Use a high-potassium fertilizer at the start of winter and summer to protect crops from temperature extremes or when insects and disease have caused damage to your plants.

OK, so the numbers don’t add up to 100 %, what’s up with that? That’s because there are other nutrients and filler product in fertilizer mixtures, such as Iron (which will be the fourth number in a blend). This filler helps to apply the nutrients evenly over an area. No need to do the math. The first four numbers in any blended fertilizer mix are the most important for what you are feeding.

Meanwhile, back at the farm...

Moss Control in Lawns and Turf

2010-01-31T09:59:00.000-08:00

Why do I have moss in my lawn?

Moss growing in lawn areas is a common problem that can have several causes. Keep in mind, however, moss is not likely to invade or crowd out vigorous grasses. Instead, it develops as lawns thin due to poor site or management practices.

Some of the most commons factors that allow moss to develop in a lawn are: Low soil fertility, poor soil drainage, compacted soils, excessive shade, poor air circulation, high humidity, general neglect, irregular mowing, lack of adequate nutrients, and over watering. More often, there are a combination of these conditions that promote moss.

Short term, what can be done about the moss?

Moss can be eliminated if a diligent effort is made before it gets a strangle hold on your lawn. The winter or early spring months (November through early March) are the best time for treatment. 1.) Apply ferrous sulphate or iron sulphate at a rate heavy enough to completely cover or penetrate into the moss. Usually 20 gallons of mixed liquid or 5 lbs of the granular formulation per 1,000 square feet. Make sure the temperature will not exceed 75 degrees after or during treatment or you will burn your grass! Follow with another treatment 4 to 6 weeks later. The iron will also green your lawn without a lot of new growth and reduce most lawn diseases. 2.) Using a commercial lawn aerator (one that will aerate at least 2 inches deep), and while the soil is still wet (allowing proper penetration of the aerator) plug your lawn. You do not have to remove the plugs. They will provide additional soil for seed germination and will dissipate as time goes on. 3.) Reseed your lawn in the spring and apply a small amount of slow release starter fertilizer. Make sure it has less than 10% nitrogen and at least a 25% slow release or you will burn the new seed as it germinates. Rhododendron food is an excellent choice.

KEEP THE IRON ON THE GRASS ONLY! BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL NOT TO ALLOW ANY IRON TREATMENTS TO COME IN CONTACT WITH WOOD, CONCRETE, BRICK, OR ANY OTHER MATERIALS. IT PERMANENTLY STAINS!

A Permanent Solution?

In some cases, you can permanently eliminate moss but it is unlikely. However, you can keep it to tolerable levels by implementing sound cultural practices, by being diligent.

Evaluate the site. Get enough soil samples for a cross representation of your soil structure. A two to three inch deep sample is adequate. Have the samples evaluated by a professional lab. Most extension offices, farm supply stores, or garden centers, will send the samples in for you if properly bagged and marked. So, check with them before taking your samples in for their requirements. There are also kits available to purchase that will give you the basics.

1.) After your sample has been precisely evaluated, apply the recommended rate of lime to raise the ph and lower the acidic level and make all necessary corrections to favor healthy lawn growth. Moss likes a high acidic, shaded, and wet soil and by eliminating these conditions, you will rid your lawn of this menace. For example, prune trees to allow more light to reach the lawn and remove excess vegetation to improve air circulation over the site.

2.) Improve drainage and soil compaction by plugging or aerating at least twice yearly.

3.) Fertilize according to the type of grass growing on site and type of site. Lawns in full sun require more fertilizer than those in shade. Avoid excessive watering and mowing too short. Mow between two and three inches, preferably at the high end of the range for summer.

4.) Use iron in your granular fertilizer program every time you feed your lawn. Usually 5% is adequate.

5.) Check for reinfestation during the winter months and apply iron, if needed.

KEEP THE IRON ON THE GRASS ONLY! BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL NOT TO ALLOW ANY IRON TREATMENTS TO COME IN CONTACT WITH WOOD, CONCRETE, BRICK, OR ANY OTHER MATERIALS. IT PERMANENTLY STAINS!

Finally, make sure the proper grass is growing for the site conditions present. For example, Kentucky bluegrass is ideal for full-sun areas but does not typically do well in shade, thus tends to thin out and allow moss to invade. Fine fescue, such as red fescue, is a better option for shade.

Meanwhile, back at the farm...

Red Thread

2010-01-30T13:26:00.000-08:00

Let's discuss a common disease that occurs in lawns mostly during the fall and winter months. It’s called Red Thread (Laetisaria fuciformis). The disease is very easy to correct with a simple application of iron (no nitrogen is necessary), which will also help control moss. In severe cases, you will need to apply iron three to four times (or more) from fall through late spring. Most diseases (whether it be on lawns or any other kind of plants) happens when plants are weak from lack of proper nutrients. The disease is especially severe on slow-growing and iron deficient turf. All turf and lawn grasses are susceptible to this disease especially bluegrasses (Poa sp.), fescues (Festuca sp.), ryegrasses (Lolium sp.), and bentgrasses (Agrostis sp.) can be affected. Fine-leaved fescues and some ryegrasses are particularly susceptible.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO ALLOW THE IRON TO COME IN CONTACT WITH WOOD, CEMENT, BRICK OR ANY OTHER MATERIAL. IT WILL PERMANENTLY DISCOLOR AND STAIN!

Symptoms

The first noticeable symptoms are water-soaked patches of grass in the fall through spring. Infected grass blades soon die and fade to a bleach-tan color when dry. The infected leaf blades, are often mixed with healthy unaffected leaf blades giving the grass a ragged appearance (the left picture). In severe cases, most leaf blades may be killed and diseased grass looks scorched or yellowed in irregularly-shaped or circular patches. The patches may be widely scattered or, if close together, may combine into larger spots.

In humid weather, the fungus grows visibly on the infected grass blades and leaf sheaths. The fungus produces thread-like strands or web-like areas of coral-pink to blood-red hyphae on the tips of brown grass blades (the picture to the right). The strands can protrude up to 2 cm upward from the blade tips and are easily seen, hence the name "red thread disease".

Disease Cycle

Laetisaria fuciformis may produce spores for dispersal, however, the primary means of dispersal is the spread of infected tissue and bits of the "red thread" (sclerotia) to healthy areas of grass. This type of spread depends upon mowing, foot traffic, and other activities which occur on the diseased turf. However, wind and cool, moist temperatures are the biggest culprit in spreading this disease. Invasion by the fungus is very quick, and leaves may begin to die within 2 days after becoming infected. Dried pieces of the fragmented "red thread" enable the fungus to survive when conditions are not favorable for disease development (winter, mid-summer, etc.). During dry conditions, the "threads" may live for up to 2 years.

Treatment Options

Maintain adequate soil fertility. The actual fertilization rates will depend upon the types of grass(es) grown, soil texture, and the specific rates recommended in your area. Maintain a soil pH of 6.5 to 7.0.

Avoid overwatering. Do not water the lawn in the late afternoon or evening. Provide good soil drainage. Plant trees and shrubs far enough apart so that large areas of grass do not remain shaded for long periods during the day and so that dew and other moisture on the grass will readily evaporate. Selective pruning of established trees and shrubs may also help.

Do not allow thatch levels to become excessive. As I said earlier, correction of this disease is very easy and does not need any fungicidal treatments! Start your iron treatments before the cool, moist, fall temperatures start happening (usually around mid-November) and follow again every 6 to 8 weeks until warmer temperatures (75 degrees plus) occur. The iron will darken your lawn without the heavy growth rate that you’ll see with a nitrogen based fertilizer and you will not need to mow at all! You'll be amazed how dark green it will be and just how long it will stay that way (usually up to eight weeks!). The iron will also kill any moss present in your lawn. Always include iron with your normal fertilizing program during throughout the year.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO ALLOW THE IRON TO COME IN CONTACT WITH WOOD, CEMENT, BRICK OR ANY OTHER MATERIAL. IT WILL PERMANENTLY STAIN!

Meanwhile, back at the farm...

Save Those Coffee Grounds!

2010-01-24T10:07:00.000-08:00

Used Coffee grounds are very helpful as fertilizer and as an insect repellant for indoor house plants as well as outdoor plants and lawns. Many places, such as drive through coffee stands and restaurants, are more than willing to give you their used grounds, FREE!

The grounds are an excellent source of compost and being "green" (organic) material, contain Nitrogen and other essential nutrients, they provide much needed food for all plants. Providing a great recycling use of a by-product of coffee drinking, not only satisfies and feeds grass and plants organically, but keeps just one more item out of our land fills. You will usually see results after only three days!

As a lawn fertilizer: Wearing gloves, hand spread the free gathered used coffee/tea grounds all over the grass, especially the "dead" places, like you might when using a granulated fertilizer, but as evenly as possible and about twice as much than with a granulated fertilizer. Do this just before an expected rain, because nothing good happens until the grounds are watered in, and because it is another free resource.

You can also fill in cracks left by the dryness by looking for any road/swim pool/fence construction and ask for any left over top soil. Sand is another option for cracks and low areas. Add a top dressing of these materials over the coffee grounds.

You can even use the heavier used filter paper, other than in the compost: stuff them into the cracks in the lawn and around your foundation. The residual grounds will repel pests as well, and since most used grounds have a significant number of used filters to dig out, it helps to close the gaps. Caffeine is a natural insect repellant and works quite well to repel many crawling insects such as ants.

The secret is to find the proper balance for whatever you apply it to. For an area of approximately 40'x90' feet, it takes about 15 gallons of grounds. Apply a little more around the drip line of evergreen trees/shrubs, NONE around fall leaf-losers. Do that in the spring. For a 20 inch pot, mix into the soil one to one and a half hand full of coffee grounds. Remember to decrease the amount of coffee grounds when applying to smaller potted plants. I usually will use one teaspoon in a six inch pot.

Meanwhile, back at the farm...

Weed Control without Chemicals

2010-01-16T10:25:00.001-08:00

"Weed control without chemicals" may bring up unpleasant thoughts of getting down on your hands and knees in the yard on a hot day and pulling out stubborn weeds by hand or other means. But weed control without chemicals needn't be so primitive or back breaking work. Below I will discuss a variety of weed-control methods to be used in planting beds and should be used in conjunction with each other. Weed control without chemicals can be tough work, and I want you to work smarter, not harder. No need to revert to the Stone Age!

Weed Control Without Chemicals: The Foundation

The first smart idea in a project of weed control without chemicals is to prepare the plot of ground in question. Just as in a construction project, laying a good foundation is very important. By "foundation" I mean the state of the ground where your plants will be growing. Implement these ideas before you plant, so that you'll get off to a good start in your project of weed control without chemicals.

Killing Weeds Through Soil Solarization

Soil solarization is a preventive, organic method of killing weeds and their seeds…before they sprout! This method is usually used BEFORE planting your plants and shrubs.The advice below is meant for homeowners wishing to start out with a clean slate, or re-landscaping a weed-filled patch of land in such a way as to reduce to a minimum the hassle of weed control in the future.

For those in need of soil solarization, installing landscape fabrics can be difficult in existing landscapes but with a little patience and ingenuity, it is possible. As I said above that “weed control without chemicals wouldn't mean going back to the Stone Age”, and landscape fabrics are a case in point. Landscape fabrics are a hi-tech ally in the battle against weeds.

Using Garden Mulch

As the final element in a good "foundation" for your bed of annuals, perennials or shrubs, you should apply garden mulch on top of the landscape fabric. Many skip right to mulching in the project of weed control without chemicals, but I do advise you to lay the landscape fabric first: it will lengthen the life of your garden mulch.

Any decomposing mulch will work: Bark dust is an excellent choice. It not only provides mulch, but as it decomposes over the years, will provide additional organic material, and eventually natural fertilizer. In some cases, it provides a natural barrier to certain insects too.

If you can tolerate the odor as it decomposes, grass clippings from your mowed lawn are good. However, if spread thin enough the odor will be limited.

Fallen leaves from trees is another source. However, they will promote mildew or mold which will spread into your plants and even your house. So, maybe not a good choice unless fully decomposed.

Weed Control Without Chemicals: Pre-Emergent and Post-Emergent Organic Herbicides, Selective and Non-selective Herbicides

“Selective herbicides” refers to herbicides that attack only certain plants or grasses. Unfortunately, your resources for selective herbicides are extremely limited. You may have to revert to “man made” herbicides. If you do, ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS!

“Non-selective herbicides” refers to those that attack or kill whatever they contact, so be very careful here. There are several options to choose from on the organic or non-man made herbicides.

"Pre-emergent herbicides" refers to applying herbicides that attack weedy plants at the source: their seeds. That is, they act to inhibit seed germination before the plants in question even have a chance to announce themselves to the world above! Corn gluten is a pre-emergent herbicide used for weed control without chemicals. Remember, corn gluten will inhibit the seed of "good" plants from germinating, too, so don't use it in planting beds where you're starting plants from seed.

“Post-emergent herbicides” refers to herbicides that attack and kill weedy plants after the seed has germinated and the weedy plant is above ground with leaves.

For weed control without chemicals, distilled vinegar is an excellent choice! If the weeds are relatively young or small, mix with water at a 50% rate and a few drops of liquid dish soap. The dish soap is a wetting agent making penetration faster and better. For older or larger weeds, use the vinegar at 75% or full strength with the same rate of dish soap. Even plain old household vinegar is effective if you have only young weeds to deal with in your planting bed. However, be careful here. It’s non-selective so don’t use it in your lawn (unless spot treating weeds) or any where else that you want to keep desirable plants. When using vinegar as an herbicide: apply it directly onto the weeds ONLY!

Again, VINEGAR IS NON-SELECTIVE and will harm plants that are inadvertently exposed to it. For this reason, vinegar isn't especially effective for battling lawn weeds: you'd almost inevitably end up with too much collateral damage to your grass. But vinegar is a fine organic alternative in planting beds, as long as you watch where you're spraying!

It's the acetic acid in vinegar that gives it its herbicidal abilities. The higher the percentage of acetic acid in the vinegar, the better. Vinegar used for cooking purposes is relatively low (5%) in acetic acid, so repeated applications will be necessary if you'll be applying it on full-grown weeds. Alternatively, you can try to buy the super-strength vinegar in stores that cater to the agricultural community.

In Case You Still End Up Pulling Weeds

With landscape fabric and garden mulch in place, the bad news is that, even then, you may still get weeds. But the good news is that those weeds will be very easy to pull out. Pulling weeds embedded in mulch is not nearly as difficult as pulling weeds embedded in soil. Thus with a good "foundation," you may not even feel the need to bother with the corn gluten and vinegar: 5 minutes of easy pulling here and there should get the job done.

One exception to this may arise: if the integrity of the landscape fabric has been compromised, weeds may strike down roots in the soil beneath, making them difficult to pull out. In this case, water the area in question beforehand. It's usually easier to extricate weeds from moist soil than from dry soil.

New Year

2010-01-10T09:10:00.000-08:00

Well, here it is! The beginning of a new decade and the beginning of a new year. I hope all is well with everyone!

Soon the snow will be gone, warmer temperatures will be coming and with it new life will begin to emerge. I am looking forward to that!

This u-cut tree season was ok, considering the economy and new farms for people to visit around me. The wholesale tree market is hurting and more farms are opening for u-cutting. I wish them well and hope they can become as successful as I am. Having a tree farm is very rewarding...I do not look at it 100% as an income producer. Rather an ecosystem that provides (to all different kinds of wild life) many benefits.

Now is good time to get out into the yard and trim those fruit trees, trim your Rhodies, roses, and many other shrubs. Spray your weeds, lay down a pre-emergent weed control, take care of moss in the lawn - on roofs - and in trees and shrubs. Don't forget a dormant treatment as there are several diseases occuring now that cannot be treated later in the spring. Remember to wear protective gear and follow label directions! There are also a lot of natural products you can use but they are usually more expensive and require more treatments, so keep that in mind.

Thanks to all for following and reading my blog!

Meanwhile, back at the farm...

November 10th

2009-11-10T09:49:00.000-08:00

Good Morning
I hope all finds you well today.
When you go to plants your bulbs in the fall or spring. If you know your going to have a taller flowering plant to place a stake in the ground when planting it...This way you give it support and you don't have to worry later about putting a stake in the ground and possibly push it into the bulb and damage it.
When you are picking out your bulbs or flowers at the garden stores or farms you should remember not all plants can grow in all areas. They have a hardiness zone map that you should check before you buy. I founds some really awesome lilies but the do not thrive in this part of the Northwest.

If you have a smaller yard here is an idea you can use if you want to compost your clippings.
1. Take a plastic garbage can drill holes about 6 inches apart all over the can cans side bottom and lid, use a one inch bit.
2. Take some screening and line the inside of the can with it. This will prevent the compost from falling out the holes. Place the can on bricks to give it ventilation.
3. fill you can with your shredded material and 3 cups of manure and 1 cup of fertilizer 20-20-20.
4. Then stir the mixture well. You will need to stir it every two or three days. Your compost should be rich,dark and crumbly in about four weeks.

Here is one of those things you see happen at football games and here is the reason why

The "huddle" in football was formed due to a deaf football player who used sign language to communicate and his team didn't want the opposition to see the signals he used and in turn huddled around him.

Mean While Back @ The Farm

Rainy Days Ahead

2009-11-05T15:01:00.000-08:00

Welcome!
We started working on our Christmas Season today.
We have to start planning what we are going to sell..Then to make sure we have all the components such as bows,cones,accessories and if its the wreath we need to make sure we have the right size rings.
Since we make them right here on the farm we don't have to hire labor. We do all of that part which means some late nights for us on the farm to get you the freshest wreath with out making it in the month of September. We take great pride in making the freshest and fullest wreath around.
We know that a lot of groups have gotten into making wreath for money making toward groups Such as boyscout or church groups.
With this knowledge we have step up our effort and give you the very best you can find on the market. All our greens are grown and cut right here from the farm.

We are having some wind up here on the farm. When we get the stormy weather with wind...its always a bit worse up here since the wind comes flying up the hills and some have called it the "David Hill Westerly Winds". Since we live off of David Hill Road.

I will leave you with another couple interesting Fact I have found for you:

Sometimes in England they could obtain pork, which made them feel quite special. When visitors came over, they would hang up their bacon to show off. It was a sign of wealth that a man "could bring home the bacon". They would cut off a little to share with guests and would all sit around and "chew the fat."

Bread was divided according to status. Workers got the burnt bottom of the loaf, the family got the middle, and guests got the top, or "upper crust."

Mean While Back @ The Farm

How A Cashew Grows

2009-10-21T13:43:00.000-07:00

The fruit (nut)

The nut is attached to the lower portion of the cashew apple which is conically shaped. The cashew nut (seed) hangs at the bottom of the apple, and is c-shaped.

The cashew seed has within the outside shell the edible kernel or nut. In its raw form the cashew kernel is soft, white and meaty. When roasted it changes color and taste. Salted, it appeals to the palate as the most delicious nut.

Cashew apples and cashew nuts are excellent sources of nutrition. The cashew apple contains five times more vitamin C than an orange and contains more calcium, iron and vitamin B1 than other fruit such as citrus, avocados and bananas.

Cashew shell oil extracted from the shells is caustic and causes burns on the skin. The mucous membranes of the mouth and throat are severely affected when it comes into contact with shell oil or the irritating fumes emitted during roasting. The oily shell liquid has many uses.

I have always wondered how these nuts grew...I hope you enjoy this information.

Mean While Back @ The Farm

Welcome Back!

2009-10-20T16:03:00.001-07:00

Hello

If any of you have come out near the farm you will know we have a wonderful winery down the road just a half of mile.
That is David Hill Winery. They make some really awesome wine. Every year for Christmas they bring up a bottle or two of wine for us to enjoy. I must say they have a beautiful view from on top of the road just a bit past there front gates. They have this beautiful old house that sits in the heart of the land and you can see the rows and rows of grapes.
They have tasting for you to enjoy. They also have many wedding there,we can always hear the music from the farm from the reception.

Wow you can sure tell fall is here. I don't know if you have had the chance to get outside or go for a drive...but the leaves have turned a most beautiful color of yellow and orange. They almost looked like they were light up by the sun. It was totally amazing!

Mean While Back @ The Farm

Sunday Morning

2009-10-18T09:31:00.000-07:00

Top of the morning to you all

We have some great tips about having a fresh wreath and I wanted to pass these along to you.
Of course the first and most important is to get the freshest wreath you can get.
Next a cooler location will keep your wreath fresher longer.
The next tip is to not place your wreath on your front door if you have a storm door on it.
This acts as a green house and will dry your wreath out before the season is done.
I haven't tried this tip yet...but they say if you spray your wreath with aerosol hair spray before hanging it up will keep the moisture in....I will have to test that one myself and see if it really works. I spoke with someone who tried this and said it will burn the needles...so just enjoy the fresh wreath as long a you can leaving it natural.
Well it Sunday here at the farm and we are getting ready to head outside...Its looks like rain but we need to get some things done so we will grab our coats and head out.
Today we are going to cut some bough material and get it set up to take picture because this year we are adding this to our line up of things we are offering. We will offer 10lb box of this material shipped right to your door. I know a lot of people enjoy making there own Christmas decorations with fresh material such as nuts and pine cones. This is always a nice touch to anyone's home.

Mean While Back @ The Farm

Holiday Season is coming quickly

2009-10-14T15:52:00.000-07:00

Hello all and welcome back its always nice to see an old friend.
We are just a couple of weeks away from Halloween. You go to any store and they have all kinds of decoration's and costumes for sale and they have brought out a few of the Christmas items to get people buying ahead of time. I don't know about you but I'm not really into the spirit of celebrating Halloween. I guess we never had a lot of money growing up and we didn't have party's. My mom always made our costumes so we never had anything fancy. (I remember going out with nothing more fancy then a pillow case for a candy bag and we went to as many house as we could...and parents didn't have to go with us....wow how times have changes )I know some people just find it the greatest time to have a party. I guess it gives them a chance to dress up in something wild and crazy and every one thinks it a blast. Not that I don't enjoy a great party like everyone else...
Thanksgiving is just around the corner. One year our turkey was deep fat fried...I dear say...my older daughter said it look like it flew to close to the sun!! We all had a good laugh on that one.
When I was growing up...We always had one of those fake trees..My mom would pull it out of a box and try to fit the right branches into the pole to create a tree...Man that was always a terrible time in house...it took so long and mom's mood grew very tense.
but once it got up...it was wonderful. One of the things mom always did...and I really don't know why I think it had something to do with my Grandfather...She put a bowl of nuts and tangerines under the tree....it was always appreciated more after the Christmas present were gone and the tree is still up.....I would sit under the tree and crack the nuts and watch the lights...
I didn't go out to cut my first tree down until I was 18 years old...it was so wonderful the adventure and feeling of the soft tree while you decorated it. The smell of a fresh tree is something you just can't get out of a fake tree. My grandmother would always have a little table top fake tree....She didn't have a lot of money so she would always give all her 6 grand kids a tooth brush and bar of Ivory soap..and since she crochet she would make us slippers and vest...and in her later years...some wonderful afghans...I have two of her's still being used today.
As odd as it sounds...it was the only time I got a new tooth brush was at Christmas.

Mean while back @ the farm

Ready-Set-Go

2009-10-08T09:25:00.000-07:00

Hello all and welcome back.
If this is your first visit with us...come on in and pull up a chair.
The farm is really taking shape. We have had the time to get a lot of the extra project done this year. I've got the yard ready for the winter season except for trimming the roses...I want to wait until they have finished giving us beautiful blooms.
I think the Christmas Tree's look the best I have ever seen them. Nicely trimmed and a beautiful green color...Oh not to say they don't always look good...but there is something about them when they have been lightly shaped that gives them a wonderful look.
I sure hope we don't have the snow like we did last year...that really put a halt to the season.
I almost didn't get to see my daughter for Christmas... but we made it and it mean't so much to me to share that time with her..I do know a lot of people lost the chance to get together with family because of the snow.
So we look to the heavens above and ask for a good year.
We have been selling a lot of day lilies this fall..Its nice to see people are finding us and ordering.
They say Day lilies are one of the best selling flower. Happy returns is the one most people would recognize for it is the one a lot of commercial landscapers use. So if you go to the store or mall and look around at the flowers.....You will most likely see a day lily. They are so hardy....and put out such a beautiful bloom with a nice green foliage to fill the yards empty spaces.
The view here at the farm is spectacular. I love getting my coffee and going to the embankment and look over the tree's and the surrounding farms and hill side.
If you do come to the farm...you will see the same veiw.....and its FREE..Wink<-

Mean While Back @ The Farm

Making Time!

2009-10-06T14:30:00.000-07:00

Hello all and welcome back.

Its a beautiful day outside but I wanted to try and write more often.
We are trying to look at the farm in a new light.
We are trying to make gift idea's out of the wood we have in the trees.
This is a new idea to us. We have always just sold the tree's as Christmas tree's.
This year we are opening up the fields to people that would like to buy bough material and other green material they might want for wreath's or floral arrangements.
We are also open to letting Non-profit groups come up and get tree's for their fundraiser
@ $12.00 a tree with free baling.

Since we make our own wreaths and have the machine, I was toying with the idea of bring into the picture making wreath markers for head stones. What do you think??
You do see a lot of people decorating headstone at Christmas time for there loved ones who will not be forgotten. I even saw a head stone with the metal vast used to hold flowers someone had placed a Christmas tree in it and decorated it.

Something we ran across in researching something was the Yule log.. Yule means no work as long has the special log burns.
It is a long Christmas tradution to get a Yule log and burn it on Christmas or New Years and it will bring you good luck...they even take it to the next step of good luck so you take the ashes and bury them near a crop you want to trives and this will give you a good harvest.
I found this very intresting so this year for the Christmas tree season here you will have the chance to buy one..We all could use a little good luck don't ya think?

Mean while back @ the farm

First Day of Fall

2009-09-22T17:00:00.000-07:00

Hello and welcome back!
Wow...We have been soooooo busy here at the farm.
Where do I start?
Well today is the first day of fall and we are going to tie for the hottiest day in record here in Oregon. That gives us all a quiet moment to get caught on the things we sweep under the rug until we have time,and since its very hot out side and we are keeping cool inside.
Well the lilies have been keeping us very busy planting and trimming and of course selling.
We had this wonderful couple stop by the farm passing thru since they came from Seattle.
Its always a pleasure to meet the customers in person and share their love of lilies with us.
They loved our lilies and many choice going home with one of our beautiful day lilies.
Our garden of corn was well enjoyed here. We just love the golden sweet yellow corn.
We also put in some potatoes...Let me tell you a little trick about when we went to put our garden in..and could not find any potato starts left any where(we got a late start on the garden)...and we wanted fresh potates..
So here is the secret to this work around....go to the store and buy organic potatoes...cut them into cubes and coat them with rooting compound or lime...but lime is the best...We ended up having some great Yukon gold and red potatoes...and will be eating on them for another couple of months.
Our roses are still coming on strong...its wonderful to get some color in yard at this time of the year. The day lilies are still blooming...but they are on the end of there cycle.

Reba the Yellow lab who also lives here is very busy watching for digger squirrels...
She can get one cornered..and the squirrel will start squawking and making a lot of noise.
I was talking to my daughter and said ...Yes we have digger squirrels. they dig tunnels in the ground instead of living in the tree's. Man they can be a real pain....I had one get into the house...and boy was that a wild ride trying to get it out...with the help 2 people a broom and two oven mit's we got the little one out...They look just about like a regular squirrel you would find in the city...but they have claws.
We were on our way back from a trip to California to see the new #3 grand daughter...was a great trip...I got a chance to see a bald eagle...oh I so wished I would have had my digital camera ready...It was a photo op I would have treasured. I do love my wild life pictures..and flower of course.
So..I have another tip for you. If you purchase your bulbs now..it could be any bulb(tulips,crocus,lilies,)...You can keep them in the refrigerator veggie bin for at least 6-8 weeks. This works the best if you have an extra one in the garage...I personal would not put flower bulbs in with my fruits and veggies.
I'm working at getting the yard ready for winter...trimming the spent flowers and getting things set for the fall and winter months ahead.
We are getting ready for the Christmas tree season...This is more work then people realize...it is a year round job...of course the month of October-December are the busiest.
We have to get the wreath made..make sure we have every ready for the sell shed...
and of course our crew...We don't have a crew year round...its more of mama papa kettle type of business until Thanksgiving and we bring in the big guns to help out.
Its great joy to see our regular customers return with there children and see them grow each year.

Mean while back @ the farm

Saturday March 28th

2009-03-28T12:46:00.000-07:00

Welcome back
I wanted to tell you all how successful our on site sales went last weekend.
We had a tremendous turn out and want to thank everyone who help support our sale.
We got a chance to meet so many wonderful people that wanted to share our love of lilies with them. We had this young couple wanting to fill a spot in their yard and it gave us great joy to
be able to guide them through this new experience, from the type of lily to the soil and how the bulb should go in the ground. Many people get intimidated over lily for they only see them in floral arrangement and they look so delicate. Well they are very hardy and do well in our environment.
Lilies are much like a tulip bulb but the bloom times are much more varied then a tulip.

We have many people ask us when the lilies will bloom. They will bloom from May to August. The Day lilies will bloom repeatedly through the late spring and summer. When most flowers are done blooming the day lilies and roses are still going strong at the farm. Day lilies are such a wonderful accent to the garden and I have found them to be a wonderful staple to the garden beds.
Its a rainy Saturday here on the farm so we are all trying to find dry indoor chores to get us through this spring. Our lily beds are being filled with the new "kids" as we call them. They are the starts we got off the mother bulb and we are just now finding they are large enough to get them out in the big wide world.
Well I better get to my chores.

Mean while back @ the farm

Bulbs

2009-02-13T13:34:00.000-08:00

Often you may wonder, "This bulb looks really small. I didn't pay a lot for it, so I'll plant it anyway. Looks kind of dry and whimpy, too."

After a few months...nothing. No bloom, no leaves...nothing. O darn! Another disappointing spring without a new lily.

Here in lies the bottom line. When you buy bulbs, especially of the lilium species (Oriental, Asiatic, Tiger, Orienpet, Trumpet Lilies), be sure they are minimum of 14cm in circumference and healthy! (No brown spots on the scales, and no rotten potions of the scales. It should be firm to the touch...no mush or softness.) That's about the size of a lemon. Here's why: If the bulb is too small, it will rot. There is not enough outer scale protection for the new growth that will emerge from the center of the bulb to protect from 1) excessive soil moisture, 2) severe frost and more. All bulbs, regardless of where you live, should be planted a minimum of four inches deep. The larger mature varieties such as trumpet lilies require six inches depth. This aids in preventing the stem from falling over, protection from freezing, adequate drainage, and just a much stronger/healthier plant. Too often, they are planted just too darn shallow.

Coming soon, "Where to plant those georgeous wonders (lilies: I am still amazed how such a large bloom can come out of a such a small bulb) and container growing daylilies and lilies")

Meanwhile, back at the farm....

Spring Fever

2009-01-22T16:57:00.000-08:00

Welcome Back
I am so happy to have the day light hours getting longer.
Since we all work a long day when we get home we like to enjoy seeing the yard taking shape from the cold quiet sleep of winter.

When the first bloom of the crocus tells us all that spring is really just around the corner we all
get very excited. Even thou I have found those little gentle giants of the winter threshold to sometimes come out to soon and they stand in a cold mound of snow.

I have a bird feeder out the back door and I do enjoy seeing the little birds flock to the feeder for the extra help they need for the cold weather. I tried nailing orange half's to the tree's and hoped to bring the woodpeckers close to the door for us to enjoy. Only one has been spotted to this day.

We are looking forward to the spring that will bring our lilies out of the ground and blooming for us.
Something I have found is the wonderful combination of the day lilies and oriental lilies planted together giving us an never ending bloom and green foliage for the whole summer long.
If you plant your lily garden with much fore thought you will be able to have bright beautiful colors from the early months of May to the beginning of fall.

Mean while back @ the farm

Winter Fruit Tree Treatments

2009-01-05T17:21:00.000-08:00

Greetings! The snow is melting here and it's time to start thinking about pruning and spraying your fruit trees, if you haven't done so already. I know, a lot of you are considering a long, extended vacation to someplace warm, with white sandy beaches, and someone to serve you a nice cocktail 24-7, breakfast in bed, or... When do we leave?

Dormant sprays consist of a dormant oil and lime sulfur (phew! it really smells) or copper. The latter is my choice since there is no smell, other plants treated with this mix will not get burned, and you can accomplish the same results. There are a multitude of plants and trees that should also have this spray applied to them...not just fruit trees.

Your trimming should be finished by the end of February. If you trim after the buds have emerged with new leaves, you can damage the trees and very little fruit will be produced. All deciduous trees should be trimmed during the winter months.

Planted any new bulbs yet, or are they still in the package, hmmmm?

Cold Weather

2008-12-31T12:35:00.000-08:00

Hello fellow gardeners and Happy New Year!!!!!!

Recently I've been asked questions regarding the cold and snowy weather and how it will impact new and old bulbs planted, especially lilies.

As long as they were planted 6 inches deep (which is what I recommend regardless of where you live), then you will be OK for the up coming Spring sprouting excitement. Most lilies are quite hardy and will tolerate extreme temps as low as -10 degrees if planted deep enough. I remember one time I was getting ice for a soda drink and accidentally set three bulbs in the ice compartment of the freezer while filling my glass with ice. (Kind of like A PACK RAT - you know, take something and replace it with something else idea). The bulbs are a variety that blooms the first week of May and being new guy's, I was excited to see the blooms. First week of May, nothing. Second and third week....still nothing. Well, upon opening the freezer in June to pull out my favorite steak for a little barbie, there they were! Still firm and healthy like the first day they were lost into a deep slumber in the "deep freeze". I thought, "boy, these will NEVER survive!" So, I planted them the day I located the lost rascals in a whiskey barrel in full sun and sure enough...they grew like crazy but did not bloom until the following Spring.

I figured they were in the comatose state of sleep for about four and a half months.

Bottom line? Lillie's are one of the most hardy plants you can have in your garden!

Meanwhile, back at the ranch...